Federico Fellini
Roma

I watched this film "Roma" by Fellini (from 1972...other times, another city) in a small Roman Z-class cinema, and I had an uncontrollable urge to leave this city. I saw "this Rome" and for the first time, I considered leaving Rome.

I was saying goodbye to my friends. Where are you going? I'm going to the back of the moon. Are you crazy?
I wanted to leave that whorish, bourgeois, fascistoid Rome, that Rome of "volemose bene e annamo avanti", that Rome of pizzerias, dairies, "Salt and Tobacco" shops, "Vegetables and Fruit" stalls, that Rome of chestnut cakes, maritozzi with cream, without cream, mostaccioli and candies, supplì, lupini, mosciarelle...

I was leaving that Rome of grocers, doorkeepers, brothels, approximations, deceptions, appointments that are never on time, payments that are never made, that Rome of post offices and registry offices, that Rome of ministry officials, clerks, bankers, that Rome where applications were always already closed, where you needed a recommendation...
I was leaving that Rome of urinals, public lavatories, fountains, ex-votos, the Right Ring Road, the Left Ring Road, the Vatican, the thousand churches, the cathedrals outside the walls, inside the walls, that Rome of nuns, friars, priests, cats...

I was leaving that Rome of attics with views, the Rome of Piazza Bologna, Parioli, Via Veneto, Via Gregoriana, that D'Annunzian, baroque, eternal, imperial Rome, that old, very old, touristy Rome, that Rome by day, that Rome by night, that Rome of the little band at Piazza Esedra, the fascist Rome of certain Pariolini...

I was leaving that Rome that everyone envies us, the Romecaput Mundi, of the Colosseum, the Imperial Forums, Piazza Venezia, the Altare della Patria, the University of Rome, that Rome always with the sun - summer and winter - that Rome that is always better than Milan (aside from the Romans who are 60% uncouth...).

I was leaving that Rome where people urinated in the streets, that stinking, bureaucratic Rome, of half-liters, oxtail stew, that Rome of rich shopkeepers: that Rome of Gucci, Bulgari, that Rome where there is no work, where there's not a penny, that Rome of the "core de Roma"...
I was leaving that Rome of the Mount of Piety, the Banca Commerciale Italiana, Campo de' Fiori, Piazza Navona, Piazza Farnese, that Rome of "do you have a cigarette?", "lend me a euro", that Rome of CONI, the Horse Show, that Rome of the Forum that bore and still bears the name of Mussolini. I was leaving that shitty Rome!*

Then the film ended.

I breathed a benevolent sigh and went out to Trastevere to wander with my faithful pitbull, Stronko, who sniffed every piece of paper covering the unhealthy streets of the neighborhood, whistling "Roma non fa la stupida stasera...".

And well done Fellini, who with this halfway-between-a-documentary-and-a-theatrical-comedy film (certainly NOT a masterpiece), managed to capture the atmosphere and soul of an entire city, which, despite often getting on our nerves (and with the necessary time difference from the 70s to today) never ceases to amaze us.

For better or for worse.


*Thanks to Remo Remoti and his historic "piece" (viewable HERE) reworked for the occasion...